Interested in getting out of that uncomfortable office chair for a few hours a day? It’s no surprise that standing desks have become more popular over the last five years, specifically due to the increasing number of jobs that are putting people in front of a computer eight hours a day.

Unfortunately, buying a standing desk (especially one with mechanical adjustable options) can be very expensive. Some of the most popular standing desks start around $500 and range all the way up to $5,000 for models with advanced electronics.

Of course, who wants to spend all that money just to stand up? We certainly don’t. Here are some of our favorite standing desk options that won’t cost you more than a couple Benjamins.

The StandDesk 2200 ($22)

Developed by an awesome IKEA hacker, the StandDesk 2200 is basically a super-cheap standing desk option that requires a little work to build. Designed to sit on an existing desk, this build requires a side table, shelf, brackets and some screws to create. The concept is also very easy to expand upon if you want to add additional monitors.

The downside to using this design is that portability is terrible. It also takes up a significant amount of space in your office, assuming you are switching between sitting and standing on a regular basis. Of course, the cost savings are fairly tremendous when compared to other options. It’s a cheap way to see if you like standing at your desk.

The Oristand ($39 shipped)

Created by the CEO of Hootsuite, the Oristand is a foldable standing desk that’s built out of industrial-grade cardboard. Ideal for either laptop or desktop users, the Oristand can accommodate a monitor or laptop on the top platform with a keyboard / mouse on the bottom.

Of course, you will need to have an existing flat surface to setup the desk. While definitely portable, it’s not ideal for public areas like a coffee shop, mainly due to the large size of the desk taking up a significant amount of space. It would be ideal for an office though, easy to setup or take down when you want to stand.

The StandStand ($75)

Small enough to slide into a laptop bag, the StandStand is the ultimate standing desk for someone that requires extreme portability. Opposite from the Oristand, this product would be perfect for public places (assuming you exclusively use a laptop). Made out of birch wood, the pieces can be easily assembled in less than a minute.

The downside to the StandStand is that you will be looking down at your laptop screen instead of straight ahead like other standing desk options. In addition, there’s no space for an additional mouse or other accessories (only room for a laptop).

The ReadyDesk ($169)

If you don’t want to give up your dual monitor setup, consider the ReadyDesk. Ideal for anyone that’s still on a desktop, the ReadyDesk can accommodate two 27-inch monitors or a monitor / laptop combo. This desk is particularly ideal for anyone that shares a workspace as the height adjustment options work for for anyone between 5’3″ and 6’3″. T

Of course, this isn’t a portable solution for the majority of users. Once the ReadyDesk is setup, it’s likely going to remain there. That being said, users could always shift their monitors down to the secondary platform and their keyboard / mouse to the desk if they wanted to transition to sitting.

The Chairigami ($95 to $165)

If you are into eco-friendly furniture, then check out the Chairigami desk. Starting at $95 for the Kickstarter model (42″) and ranging up to $165 for a larger size (seen above), the Chairigami may be an interesting option for anyone in need of a full-size, temporary desk; perhaps ideal for a college student living off-campus.

The downside to Chairigami products is how long they actually last. Chairigami estimates that a desk will have a two to three year life before it needs to be replaced. Of course, you may be over the whole standing desk fad by then. The desk can be recycled easily after it’s worn out.

The StorkStand ($99 to $199)

Removing the need for any actual desk, the StorkStand is an option for laptop users that lets you use a simple office chair as your desk. Supporting up to 50 pounds, the StorkStand creates a platform for your laptop on the top of a office chair using a metal brace and a Velcro strap.

While ideal for impromptu meetings with limited conference room table space, the downside to this design is that your platform will likely move with the chair; thus it’s only as stable at the office chair. In addition, some office chairs with low backs may not work well at all with this design.

6 Unique Standing Desks That are Less Than $200

Building a new desktop PC to play some of the latest games? Are you building a home media server to take advantage of Plex Pass or other HTPC software? Whatever your reasons are, there are a ton of great upgrades that custom builders overlook in favor of a more expensive CPU, additional RAM or other internals.

Here are out top choices for totally unique upgrades for your custom computer battlestation:

1. An Odds-and-Ends Drawer

Providing a place to toss all those screws, thumb drives, small cords or physical discs, installing a drawer inside one of your 5.25 drive bays is an extremely useful storage solution as well as an inexpensive upgrade. Most drive bays go unused these days, thus converting to storage just makes sense. On average, these trays run between $10 to $15 on Amazon.

2. Monitor / Keyboard Backlighting

Ideal for late night sessions at the computer, attaching LEDs to the back of a computer monitor or a HDTV can significantly reduce eye strain over time. Antec is the most popular manufacturer of these LED light strips, offering multiple color options that include white, blue, green and red. You can also attach these strips to any surface, like underneath a keyboard, shelf or along the bottom of your PC case. These are powered over USB, thus it’s easy to see when your device is on. Typical price is around $6 to $10 per strip.

3. Soundproofing

While not a flashy upgrade, soundproofing will help your sanity if you use tons of fans to keep your video card and CPU nice and chilly. If you are buying a case outright, we recommend the Nanoxia Deep Silence line (available in multiple sizes). It’s a very sturdy, well-built case that offers a near silent on-state. Alternatively, you can soundproof your existing case with sound dampening acoustic foam that attaches to the sides of your case.

4. Headphones Stand

If you constantly have to switch to headphones in order to keep the noise to a minimum, leaving that pair of headphones lying around on your desk is just silly when you can get an artistic stand for less than $15. We are fans of the AmoVee Acrylic Headphone Stand, but you can find options that clamp onto your desk if you are short on space. There are also higher end wooden and steel options if you want a material other than plastic.

5. Giant Mouse Pad

You don’t have to be a gamer to enjoy the benefits of a SteelSeries QcK gaming mouse pad. Offered in sizes up to a massive three feet in length, the QcK series is a popular choice for anything that wants a high quality, cloth pad with a rubber bottom. The space alone is worth the upgrade from a traditional mouse pad. You can generally purchase these pads for $10 on Amazon.

6. Treat Your Feet

Sitting at a desk all day for your job or all night during an extra long gaming session can take a toll on your comfort. Enter the Foot Hammock, a product that popped up on Kickstarter last year and is shipping now. Offered in multiple colors as well as soft fleece, you can attach the Foot Hammock to your desk without actually drilling into it. Downside is the product is a little expensive at $40. If your desk is compatible, you should also check out the FUUT option on Amazon that sells for roughly $15.

7. Monitor Desk Mounts

Rather than limiting your monitors to the stand that came with it, mount a couple of those monitors to your desk with an adjustable stand. Ideal for both vertical or horizontal layouts, monitors mounted to the left and right of the main screen(s) on the desk can provide depth and additional screen space for both work & play. Mounts typically sell for about $15 to $99.

8. Solid Cable Management

A necessity in the age of mobile devices, some form of charging station or cord management solution is ideal for a home office. You can do as inexpensive as a $10 Quirky Cordies heavy rubber cord stand or more expensive desktop solutions that allows you to stack and charge multiple devices at the same time. Those devices usually have multiple USB ports and range from $40 to $60 depending on design and power output.

9. The Best Chair You Can Afford

There are a ridiculous number of choices for office chairs out there that range upwards of $1,000. We are quite partial to the DX Racer series of chairs, a brand that’s exploded in popularity among PC battlestation enthusiasts. While you will easily lay out $300 to $400 for one of these chairs, the benefits include a 135 degree reclining angle, 90 degree rotating arm rests and stellar Amazon reviews for comfort. You can also get something similar with the IKEA Markus chair at $229, if you are willing to sacrifice a couple features.

9 Unique Computer Upgrades to Enhance Your Custom Battlestation

Jumping up from $0 to $120 on July 30, 2016, Microsoft’s free upgrade offer to all Windows 7 and 8.1 users will expire at the end of July. After July 29th, anyone that wanted to upgrade to Windows 10 from an older operating system will be force to pay $119.99 to get the new operating system. Of course, any new Windows-powered device you purchase will have Windows 10 already installed as the main operating system.

The $120 price isn’t new, of course. Microsoft have already been selling the full version of the Home version for that price via download or USB stick. The ability to upgrade for free has always had an expiration date, however it was always possible that Microsoft would extend the promotion. However, the latest blog post from Microsoft seems to indicate the promotion will expire as promised at the one-year anniversary of the operating system’s release.

Interestingly, Microsoft is also releasing the Windows 10 anniversary update at the end of July. That’s a free upgrade for anyone that’s using Windows 10. Upgrades include biometric security in apps and other programs, Windows Ink (integrating handwriting with a pen into the interface), an upgraded version of Cortana in more than 1,000 apps and a unified app store with the Xbox One platform. It’s also possible that Microsoft will package deeper integration with the HoloLens platform in the anniversary update.

To upgrade to Window 10, you can visit Microsoft’s upgrade page and follow the instructions. If you do plan an upgrade, consider moving to a SSD drive for faster boot times as well as instant-on access when your computer is sleeping. You can check out the latest deals on SSD drives in our Internal Hard Drive section.

But most of all, remember that all Windows 10 installations come with a ninja cat riding in your house on a unicorn.

Want Windows 10 for free? Upgrade now. It’s $120 in July

As of this morning, the first major Black Friday ad dropped for the holiday shopping season. The Dell Black Friday 2015 ad is mainly focused on two core categories, laptops and desktops. However, there’s also fantastic deals in the home theater and gaming space as well.

Check out our top 5 picks below!

1. Vizio 60″ 4K Ultra HDTV ($799.99)

This doorbuster price beats a historical low of $1,100, a $300 savings.  This set has received high praise from reviewers in regards to picture quality versus price point. Some people are even using it as a giant computer monitor due to the 4K resolution.

2. Dell Inspiron Micro Desktop PC ($99.99)

This doorbuster price beats a historical low of $150, a $50 savings. While it’s not listed in the ad, the micro desktop PC likely comes with a Dell KB216 keyboard and MS116 optical mouse.

3. Xbox One 500GB Gears of War + Bonus Controller + Fallout 4 ($299.99)

This doorbuster price beats a historical low of $350, a $50 savings. It also comes with an arguably more popular game than previously advertised bundles, Fallout 4 instead of Rare Replay.

4. Dell Inspiron 14″ Laptop ($149.99)

This doorbuster price beats a historical low of $180, a $30 savings. While this laptop doesn’t include a touchscreen interface, it does come with Windows 10 and a bright, high definition display.

5. Bose SoundTrue In-Ear Headphones w/ Mic ($49.99)

This Black Friday price beats a historical low of $80, a $30 savings. This model receives high praise from Amazon reviewers, receiving a 4.5 out of 5 star rating on the retail site.

The Dell 2015 Black Friday Ad Has Been Released

I know what you’re thinking: all-in-one desktops?? LOL, wut? OK, it’s kind of funny. PC manufacturers are finding it increasingly more difficult to convince consumers to buy desktop computers in a sea of sleek, shiny and svelte laptops, tablets and smartphones. And those devices are great if you need a Mini Cooper. But all-in-one desktops are the Lincoln Navigators of the computer world — if you want some power, size, configurability and ability to block other people’s view (not that, really), the all-in-one (AIO) desktop is the best choice.

Actually, want to know what’s funny? Tower desktops. Now that’s really 1995 (apologies to gamers). Now on to our list of six favorite all-in-one desktops:

Buy This Gift to Out-Santa Old St. Nick: 27-inch iMac with Retina 5K display

The Apple iMac is one of the finest consumer desktops on the market. Originally redesigned in 2012, the iMac is a triumph of form and function, a smooth, skinny slice of aluminum that is as thin as 5mm around the edges and boasts an incredibly bright, colorful and low-glare display and surprisingly good sound. The 2015 line of iMacs (21.5-inch and 27-inch sizes) has been updated with 6th-generation Intel Skylake processors, 8GB of RAM, 1TB hard drives and three choices of display resolution: 1080p, 4K and 5K.

MSRP: 5K starts at $1,799  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: n/a

Check Amazon for the Apple iMac

Buy This Gift If They Flee at the Sound of “Apple”: Dell XPS 27 Touch

The Dell XPS 27 Touch 27-inch All-in-One Desktop is the Windows answer to the 2013 / 2014 iMac. Taking design cues from Apple , the XPS 27 has a glass covered, high-resolution (2,560 x 1,440) display, Thunderbolt port and aluminum construction. Well, aluminum construction with a plastic backside (oops). With the dual-hinge articulating arm, the screen can be flipped up at an angle so you can peck at the touchscreen goodness of Windows 10.

MSRP: starts at $1,699  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: $1,005

Check Ben’s for the Dell XPS 27 Touch

Buy This Gift If They Love the Curve: LG 29″ Curved All-In-One

Taking a cue from the curved television trend, both Samsung and LG have jumped into the all-in-one game with curved models. We choose the LG model out of the two because it includes a NVIDIA GeForce 840M graphics card with 2GB memory, the resolution of the monitor is higher and it includes Intel’s 5th generation i7 processor. It’s also a stunning design, reminiscent of the Apple iMac in some respects.

MSRP: starts at $1,799  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: n/a

Check Price on Amazon

Buy This Gift for the Master Chef: HP Slate 21 Pro

The HP Slate 21 Pro Android 21-inch Touchscreen All-in-One has a very singular purpose: as an secondary screen for rooms like the kitchen, bedroom or bathroom. It’s not your first computer or your second computer. Don’t even think of it as a computer. It’s an appliance in your kitchen that happens to be a computer. Running Android 4.3 on a Tegra quad-core processor, it’s kind of a kooky smartphone blown up to a 21-inch form factor. Cool.

MSRP: $379  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: $216

Check Ben’s for the HP Slate 21

Buy This Gift for the 24-Hour Party Person: Lenovo Horizon 2

This so-called “table” desktop gets extra credit because you can play air hockey on it. That’s right, you can purchase two air strikers (and two joysticks) for an additional $30 to use on the screen. The Lenovo Horizon 2 27-inch All-in-One Table PC is a fascinating hybrid of an all-in-one desktop with a touchscreen tablet. It can lie flat like a tablet and, with its internal battery, can even be used “portably.” Scare quotes because, well, it still weighs 15+ pounds. Hardly iPad territory. But can you play air hockey like this on an iPad?

MSRP: starts at $1,549  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: $1,400

Check Ben’s for the Lenovo Horizon 2

Buy This for the Terminally Hip: Dell XPS 18 Touch Portable

Not a Mac, you say? Eh, Apple’s too big and hasn’t innovated in years. The Dell XPS 18 Touch Portable All-in-One Desktop is the ultimate in hipsterism: it’s retro (a desktop), it’s chic (think skinny jeans) and it’s ironic (not Apple). You just won’t find it at a thrift shop.

If the Lenovo Horizon Table PC is too ginormous for your taste, the XPS 18 aims for a more sensible hybrid between the tablet and desktop with a super skinny 0.41-inch thickness—not much thicker than an iPad 4—and a weight of just 5.2 pounds. It features a built-in kickstand but you can buy an optional stand to make it look more like a traditional all-in-one.

MSRP: starts at $899  | Lowest Price on Ben’s: $600

Check Ben’s for the Dell XPS 18 Touch Portable

2015 Gift Guide: All-in-One Desktops Worth Buying

Last week, the father of the computer mouse (among other amazing computer contributions), Douglas C. Engelbart, passed away at the age of 88 on account of kidney failure.  One way to celebrate his contributions is to read about him.  Another is to watch part (or all) of his 1968 demonstrative vision of person-to-computer interfacing.

But personally, I think this is a great opportunity to showcase one of the more extreme attempts to make the indispensable computer mouse part of portable computing.  Nowadays, I enjoy using a Logitech G500 at home, and either a MacBook Air or HP Folio on-the-go.  But flashback to the 1990s and the touchpad style mouse most people are accustomed to using on laptops was just one of many different ways that laptop manufactures were trying to emulate the normal computer mouse.  There were the eraserhead style mice that lived on in the business world until a few years ago, and the trackball style mouse, which was really the laziest implementation as it was literally an inverted mouseball placed for the thumb to directly manipulate.

That brings us to the HP OmniBook 800CT.  I recently stumbled upon this Windows 95 powered 10.4″ screen Intel Pentium 100 Mhz artifact, and it blew my mind.  Why you ask? It wasn’t the compact but thick size, or the array of old-fashioned ports hidden on the back.  It was the mouse.

The OmniBook 800CT contains no trackpad, or trackball, or eraserhead.  The OmniBook 800CT user is welcome to hook up an external PS/2 mouse, but lacking such, the user has a pop-out fixed armed mouse dubbed the “OmniBook mouse.” Discovering the OmniBook mouse was like discovering a 747 a thousand years before the Wright Brothers ever flew, or some such.

Let me just say quickly before citing HP documentation directly, there is a silhouette of a real-life fuzzy mammal mouse on a button to the right of the keyboard.  By pressing that button, someone’s comical yet ingenious interpretation of a mouse ejects from within the computer.  The resulting Micro Machine-looking OminiBook mouse is not only attached to the little computer, but the thin “sturdy” strip of plastic that keeps the mouse attached is actually the mechanism that tracks the X and Y movement of the diminutive little peripheral.

Should you doubt my modern stupefied description, here is the description straight from HP.

 To use the OmniBook mouse

1. Press the round mouse-eject button in the upper-right corner of the keyboard.

2. Firmly pull the mouse out past the first resistance to its full extended position—about 3 inches (8 centimeters).

3. Lift the end of the mouse nearest you—it pops up for a more comfortable shape.

4. Although the arm limits the physical extension of the mouse, it does not limit the travel of the pointer, as you will see. Just by pushing or pulling on the mouse, the pointer will continue to travel.

The mouse is extremely sturdy. Its flexibility allows it to withstand bending and accidental bumps without breaking.

You use the OmniBook’s two-button mouse just as you do the mouse on your desktop PC: Move the pointer to the icon or menu you want, and click with the left mouse button for most operations. Or double-click—click twice rather quickly with the left mouse button—for certain operations. However, the mouse doesn’t need a surface to slide on—so you can use it anywhere.

Once you’ve popped it out, you can use the mouse with the top popped up or collapsed. The popped up position is usually more comfortable, especially if you drape your hand over it as shown. But the collapsed position may be better if you’re in a cramped environment, or you have to work with the OmniBook on your lap.

To store the mouse

1. If the mouse is popped up, press inward on the support arm and press the raised end of the mouse downward to collapse it.

–or–

Tap down sharply on the raised end of the mouse.

2. Gently push the mouse into the case opening until it latches.

To replace the mouse

1. Tug sharply on the mouse to remove it and its arm from the computer.

2. Slip the arm of the new mouse into the slot inside the mousehole on the computer. Push the arm in and force it past the first resistance.

Just wow.  It isn’t every day you find something so stunning and so forgotten that you can’t help but say it belongs in a museum.  That is, if you can say that without cracking up over the ejectable and flexible OmniBook mouse.

Thanks again, Douglas C. Engelbart. Your computer mouse is so incredible that my cats can figure how to work it, and it is such a huge part of our day-to-day lives that someone was once challenged into creating the somewhat ridiculous OmniBook mouse.

The Legacy of the Computer Mouse in One Crazy Example

If you have been following part one and part two of my building your own computer series, you know I already purchased the CPU, motherboard, RAM, hard drive and video card for a total of $704.96.

That leaves $195.04 left over to buy the optical drive, power supply and case to stick to my original $900 budget.

Power Supply

Pay special attention to this part of your computer. If the power supply shorts out, it could potentially fry everything attached to it. Don’t be the sobbing owner of a $800+ hunk of smoking metal. Consider the following for your power supply:

1. Wattage – A lower performance machine needs fewer watts and a higher performance machine requires more watts. You can calculate the wattage you’ll need here based on your other parts. Just to be safe, I would add a 50-100W buffer to that number. Meatier power supplies will run hotter and suggest higher performance hardware that also runs hotter, so if you want extra fans/cooling for your case, look into what your case will support.
2. Noise – Outside of the case itself, the power supply also tends to contribute a lot of noise. Read user reviews to get some insight on each model.
3. Efficiency – There is a percentage value for each power supply that shows its efficiency. A power supply with “80 plus certified” 600W PSU will actually be using around 720W of power from your wall (or running at 80%ish efficiency). Higher efficiency units will run cooler and save you money on your electric bill.
4. Cables – Some power supplies are listed as “modular” which means the cables can be detached from the unit. This is ideal for cable management, basically so unused cables aren’t hanging around inside your case. Certainly not required, but helpful.

This is one part of your computer that you don’t want to skimp on. Shell out an extra $10-$20 for a better model – call it insurance for the rest of your hardware. Some cases come with built-in power supplies, but are usually low quality. Some solid brands include Corsair, Hiper, and Seasonic.

Optical Drive 

There’s honestly not much to talk about here. Most CD/DVD optical drives burn discs at the same speeds these days. Blu-ray disc drive write speeds DO vary significantly, so pay attention to those – higher is better. If you want to make copies of Blu-rays or CDs/DVDs, you’ll need a second optical drive.

Brands aren’t a huge issue here, but some popular choices are Sony, LG, and Samsung.

Computer Case

I’ve saved the most fun part for last. The case is what everyone actually sees when they check out your sexy, new hardware. When they do, you want to be able to whisper “Pizzazz!” in their ear while doing jazz-hands.

Thankfully, case sizes usually correlate to motherboard sizes. For instance, a Mini ITX motherboard needs a Mini ITX Tower, a Micro ATX motherboard goes with a Micro ATX tower and a full ATX motherboard goes with a full tower. For larger cases, you can use smaller motherboards (Ex. a full ATX case can use both Mini ITX and Micro ATX motherboards).

Beyond case size, there are a few other characteristics to look into.

1. Airflow – Cases usually come with a number of fans for cooling down your beast. The best-designed cases generally have a large fan directly above the area where the video card and processor sit in addition to a smaller fan on the rear near the power supply. Cases also have a varying amount of holes and openings where air can escape allowing for additional fan placements.
2. Cable Management – There’s going to be a plethora of cables running through your case when all is said and done. Loose cables disrupt airflow and generally make the inside of your computer look like a night out with Andy Dick. Some cases have useful secondary compartments that allow you to run cables away from your main hardware area. Others simply come with zip ties and leave you to figure it out. User reviews should go into more detail.
3. Drive Bays – Drive bays sit at the front of your case and hold your hard drives (Internal 3.5″) and optical drives (External 5.25″). Card readers (SD, MicroSD, etc.) can also take up this space. Your motherboard choice reflects how many SATA drives you’ll be using, and your case should as well. It’s always good to have an extra drive bay for each size in case you want to add more hard drives or optical drives in the future.
4. Ports – Like your motherboard, the case generally comes with a few USB and headphone/microphone ports. If you need more USB/USB 3.0 ports, look for that feature within the case specifications.

When it comes to popular brands, Antec and Coolermaster cases are generally highly-regarded and extremely well-made. Corsair, Fractal Design, and NZXT also make great cases.

The Shopping List is Complete!

After rebates and before taxes/shipping, my total came to $820 and some change. Shipping was just a flat $4 charge for everything except the case (case shipping was an additional $10). All in all, I saved about $100 vs. the cheapest custom configurator I could find online (Cyber Power Inc.) at the time. Technically, I could’ve saved more with some more shopping around, but time and Bioshock Infinite was of the essence. In the long run, I’ll end up saving even more with the ability to swap parts in and out.

IMPORTANT: The operating system is not covered in this section. Keep in mind this portion of your computer will cost about $80-$100 for the basic version. If you already have an operating system from your old computer that you want to keep (Windows 7 or 8 would probably be best) then you can just carry that over to your new computer. We’ll get more into that after we build the computer.

Now it’s time for the scary part – putting it all together!

Continue to Part 4 – Putting It All Together

Layman’s Guide for Building Your Own Computer – Part 3: Optical Drive, Power Supply and Case

A very special shout-out to /r buildapc on Reddit for all of their help and input on this guide. If you’re seriously considering building your own computer, send your questions their way. Really knowledgeable people.

Why Build a Computer When You Can Just Buy One?

When we talk about computers, there’s a wide range of consumers who permeate the marketplace. There are the “Enthusiasts,” who drop $2,000+ on a rig, because their computer from last year can’t  warp space and time.

There’s the “savvy computer friend” who ends up picking out parts and building computers for everyone, because he can gouge them $100 for an hour of work. There’s the 50-year old mother who has 5 different toolbars on her IE 6.0 and doesn’t understand how Adult Friend Finder took over her “Google Program.”

Then there’s me—the technologically inept business operations manager who can’t play Bioshock Infinite on his 5-year old Windows XP machine and has accidentally set said computer on fire in a  blind rage.

(l) Me pondering building a PC, (r) Grumpy Cat

When I communicated my intention to purchase an already-built computer to my deal and tech-savvy coworkers, I discovered two things:

1. I’m a filthy, evil blasphemer who should be flogged for such vile words.
2. There is still time for me to turn from my sinful ways towards a state of enlightenment. Please don’t hurt me…

I knew what I had to do, and I was confident I could live up to the challenge. How hard could it be to build a computer from scratch? All I have to do is put in some RAM and flip a switch, and presto! Right? RIGHT?!?

The Benefits of Building Your Own Computer

This is what it will look like, I promise!

To be fair, I have discovered there are numerous benefits to building your own computer:

• Full control over what goes into the rig and how it is constructed. Do you want a quiet, efficient machine or something that can launch a nuclear missile? Do you want it to be a workmanlike cog in your home office or a channel through which your energy drink consumption transfers into gaming frags at faster-than-light speeds?
• In many cases, you save yourself a good chunk of money depending on the deals you’re able to find on parts. Fry’s and Newegg are good places to start.
• The knowledge you gain is invaluable and will save you even more money in the long run. Instead of diagnosing your computer issues as “It’s Broken,” you’ll have a better understanding of what is causing your computer to slow down and how to address the specific problem areas at a lesser cost.

The downside is time. If this is your first go at a homemade computer, you’ll need to do some research on the various parts, brands, configurations, etc. Then there’s the whole “building it” thing… I’d recommend taking a few shots beforehand. (Consult your country’s legal drinking age before proceeding with this step. The CheckOut does not officially condone drinking, but it sure does make things better.)

With a $900 budget and a heart filled with dread, it’s time to take the first step towards computer-building Jedi Knighthood: buying all of the parts.

Processor (CPU)

The processor you choose will determine the kind of motherboard you’re able to use, and the motherboard determines what kind of computer you’ll be building, so this is where we’ll start. It has two important specifications: number of cores and clock speed.

The former allows it to multitask, and the latter allows it to do so quicker. If you’re constantly running multiple, smaller applications at one time, the core number will be very important to you. If you want to run fewer, more complicated tasks quickly (like video games) then you may pay a little more attention to clock speed.

Generally, clock speed should only be used as comparison within families of processors. For example, an Intel Core i5 3.4GHz will outperform an Intel Core i5 3.1GHz, all things being equal. That might not necessarily be the case if you compare it to an Intel Core i7 3.1GHz or similar AMD processor. At the time of this article’s publication, a low-powered machine will be fine with 1 core, a mid-range machine will want 2 or 4, and a high-powered behemoth will need 4+ cores.  Once you choose a brand and desired price range, be sure to read some reviews on a few processors before making a decision.

Keep in mind, if you purchase your processor from the original manufacturer (OEM), you may have to purchase a heat sink/cooler separately – usually $20 or so. This will sit on top of your processor and ensure it doesn’t overheat.

The two processor gods are AMD and Intel. Intel processors tend to have better overall performance while AMD processors tend to be more affordable (i.e. not as cool).

Motherboard

The motherboard is the component of your PC through which every individual working part communicates with every other working part.

Because the motherboard is so stupor-inducingly spec-heavy, most “How-To” guides spend pages discussing how to pick one out. I spit in their general direction. Here are the fundamental questions you need to ask (the motherboard should say if it has these things):

• Which processor am I using? Intel processors use LGA 1155 and LGA 2011 motherboard sockets; AMD processors use AM3/FM1/FM2 motherboard sockets. Generally, these are labelled as “AM3+”.
• How many RAM channels do I need? If you can, get a motherboard with 4 RAM channels. It makes upgrading later easier. 2 RAM channels are okay—you’ll just be forced to buy higher-capacity RAM sticks when you upgrade. Make sure they’re DDR3-compatible. DDR2 is worse.
• What do I do for graphics? If you play games or do high-intensity graphics/video editing work, get a motherboard with a PCI Express x1/x3/x16 slot. Your video card will say which slot it needs. If you’re not a gamer or don’t care, find a motherboard that has integrated graphics support.
• What size motherboard do I get? Sizes are Mini ITX, Micro ATX, and full ATX. The motherboard size determines your case size (though smaller motherboards can be used in larger cases without issue) and number of features you can include. Mini ITX is good for school, work, and low-end gaming. Micro ATX is good for building mid-range gaming computers. Full ATX boards can support the most add-ons and are good for powerhouse gaming rigs or computers you want to upgrade with a lot of additional features (Bluetooth, extra USB slots, dual-video cards, etc.).
• How many USB ports do I want? If you have a lot of things to plug in (webcams, camera charger, iPod sync cables, etc.) get a motherboard with more USB support. If you use USB 3.0 products, get one with USB 3.0 support.
• How many SATA ports do I need? Your hard drives (i.e. 3.5″ internal storage drives) and optical drives (i.e. external 5.25″ DVD or Blu-ray drives) plug into the SATA ports. Unless you require more than 2TB of storage, two hard drive SATA ports will be more than enough. You’ll need at least one SATA port for your optical drive, but if you want to copy DVDs/Blu-Rays, make sure your motherboard comes with an extra SATA port for a second optical drive.
• Do I need SLI/Crossfire support? This only applies if you want to use two video cards in an ultimate gaming computer of ultimate destiny. If you’re reading this guide, you probably don’t need it.

You’ll be good with an ASUS, Gigabyte, recent Biostar and MSI brand motherboard.

Continue to Part 2 – RAM, Hard Drive, and Video Card

Layman’s Guide for Building Your Own Computer – Part 1: Intro, Processor, and Motherboard