Got one the other day, VERY bright. It says 12watt and it seems like true 12watts. Seems more like a 100watt bulb than a 75watt. Going to get a couple more. Seems like 5k temp with decent CRI Good red differentiation. Could be used for video/photography.
Hmm, do I have a My Lowe's membership? lol, yes I do. Pretty good deal, I checked and to find that anything close to a true 1000lm (instead of overrated generic lies) is $16 and up including shipping.
The main downside I see is the lens is tempered glass while the $16 delivered Keystone from Northern Tool on has a *breakproof* polycarbonate lens:
I tested the actual draw with a watt meter. It is 9 watts. I cannot confirm whether it is PWM or constant light. I use reds to test light quality, generally higher quality CRI have far more red diversity. Their isn't a greenish/yellow cast which you get with cheaper led phosphors. It is definitely lower than 6500k temp as I have a led that is and it is way bluer. My guess is between 5000K to 5500K For me quality of light (CRI) can be a factor for certain applications. With a lil DIY a 4 to 6 pod could be made for Videography. I tested lux at aprox 12 inches and got 3200lux and 860lux at 3 feet. So you definitely need 4 or more. For macro 3 or 4 of these would be great. Dave you got me thinking, the glass lens will likely block some UV above 400uM versus direct LEDs. No need for lens UV filter :)
^ It's going to be a switchmode PSU driving them so you could check the output filter stage of that. It'd take a fairly beefy capacitor to be *nearly* constant, which I doubt they'd use for a product ed at the work light crowd. You could try adding one which may or may not compromise the stability of the circuit.
Here's a video review w/teardown of their older 700lm model, though it doesn't show the driver circuit as it's in its own plastic case: target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1Vuyy0WGgQ
Dave, a lot of those LED COB modules are running off simple full-wave rectified AC with some basic current limiting in multiple paralleled strings. I just got a 150W streetlight LED from a Chinese supplier that takes a direct 120VAC input. Lot of the SMPS ICs are going high-frequency now also, to reduce the size of the inductor and capacitor req'd. I just sent out a board to drive a 25V LED at 2A, and the filtering cap only needed to be about 2.2uF ceramic at a 1.4MHz switching frequency. Can't get much cheaper than that.
^ This isn't a high die count series COB arrangement like the 150W lights, has only 15 LEDs. Take a look at that youtube video teardown I linked for the other version. You can't see the circuit but can see the 24VDC/330mA specs on the driver.
Just got an email from Lowes, stating it was supposed to ship on the 29th but is delayed till "Expected Ship Date 12/07/17", giving the option to cancel the order until it ships.
Think I'll wait it out, though it's a bit odd considering Lowes' website currently shows both stock at my local store, available for pickup and that it's still available to ship at $15.
Think I'll wait it out, though it's a bit odd considering Lowes' website currently shows both stock at my local store, available for pickup and that it's still available to ship at $15."/>
What a bad act by Lowes. The light remained in stock every day since my order was placed and after receiving the email to wait till the 7th, they sneakily sent an email late on the 8th stating that I had to contact them if I did NOT want to cancel the order by the new date which was the 8TH, the SAME day. If they didn't want to honor the deal they should have just cancelled the order in the first place.
Received mine. Color temperature is nice, around 4500K. No flickering noticeable, reasonably durable plastic shell. Terrible heatsinking, gets hot in back and uses about a 0.8mm thick mPCB with a heat spreader in back that's about two layers of tinfoil thick, so thin that it flexes from the pressure of the screws so it doesn't make good contact.
The driver is on the same mPCB as the LEDs, very high frequency with AC mains directly connected to the mPCB. 68uF/160V capacitor. It's not case grounded so probably not a good idea to add a heatsink sticking out the back of the case, unless you swap the power cord with a grounded one and earth ground the heatsink itself, and you might find there are clearance issues doing so because there's only enough thickness for the original tinfoil heat spreader unless you grind down the plastic reflector some.
I might've expected too much for $10, may just leave it as-is and see how long it lasts but I wouldn't use it for long periods of time in hot summer months.
Comments & Reviews (14)
The main downside I see is the lens is tempered glass while the $16 delivered Keystone from Northern Tool on has a *breakproof* polycarbonate lens:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Keystone-LED-Worklight-1000-Lumens-Model-C1-1000SS/391919009426
Meh, if the lens breaks I can replace it with a piece of scrap polycarb.
I tested lux at aprox 12 inches and got 3200lux and 860lux at 3 feet. So you definitely need 4 or more. For macro 3 or 4 of these would be great.
Dave you got me thinking, the glass lens will likely block some UV above 400uM versus direct LEDs.
No need for lens UV filter :)
Here's a video review w/teardown of their older 700lm model, though it doesn't show the driver circuit as it's in its own plastic case:
target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1Vuyy0WGgQ
Think I'll wait it out, though it's a bit odd considering Lowes' website currently shows both stock at my local store, available for pickup and that it's still available to ship at $15.
Think I'll wait it out, though it's a bit odd considering Lowes' website currently shows both stock at my local store, available for pickup and that it's still available to ship at $15."/>
The driver is on the same mPCB as the LEDs, very high frequency with AC mains directly connected to the mPCB. 68uF/160V capacitor. It's not case grounded so probably not a good idea to add a heatsink sticking out the back of the case, unless you swap the power cord with a grounded one and earth ground the heatsink itself, and you might find there are clearance issues doing so because there's only enough thickness for the original tinfoil heat spreader unless you grind down the plastic reflector some.
I might've expected too much for $10, may just leave it as-is and see how long it lasts but I wouldn't use it for long periods of time in hot summer months.
Thank you!