Yeah, it's a shame Sony is now so misleading with the 2400W nonsense. The manual states (total) power consumption as 370W which would mean a max of about 167W/ch RMS before excessive THD, but then misleads again claiming "power output (rated) 350W + 350W (at 4 ohms, 100Hz, 1% THD) RMS output power (reference) 600W + 600W (per channel at 4 ohms, 100Hz)."
On the plus side, since it doesn't produce 2400W you don't have to worry about it tripping your circuit breaker. :lol:
In the manual pages 37 did say at very top, 150W RMS X 2 with 4 ohm load @ .7 THD, NO BRACKET. At bottom where Amplification; look closely.... hence the bracket...(Rated & References), it a measurement and not terminal output. References to sound of 2400W system at 1 THD, to me at 1 THD is nothing but distortion or near clipping stage.
I don't see anything wrong or they are cheating, it the consumers that don't understand what they mean.
^ It's cheating. Standard amp rating is RMS watts/channel with a "+" symbol for more than one channel, at 0.01% THD for anything fancier than a boom box/cellphone/clock radio/computer speakers/etc.
So, if it's 150W RMS X 2 with 4 ohm load @ .7 THD then the more standard way of rating it might be around 120W + 120W RMS @ 4 ohm.
Customers are not supposed to have to do calculations and look at discrete power amp or transistor datasheet graphs to estimate what the real world comparitive power output is... and most of them aren't able to if they tried because there's still a lot more to it like actual speaker impedance @ rated frequency, the output power vs power supply subcircuit voltage and current, power rail capacitance (doesn't effect RMS directly but does effect THD floor level), gain setting, etc.
Comments & Reviews (4)
On the plus side, since it doesn't produce 2400W you don't have to worry about it tripping your circuit breaker. :lol:
I don't see anything wrong or they are cheating, it the consumers that don't understand what they mean.
So, if it's 150W RMS X 2 with 4 ohm load @ .7 THD then the more standard way of rating it might be around 120W + 120W RMS @ 4 ohm.
Customers are not supposed to have to do calculations and look at discrete power amp or transistor datasheet graphs to estimate what the real world comparitive power output is... and most of them aren't able to if they tried because there's still a lot more to it like actual speaker impedance @ rated frequency, the output power vs power supply subcircuit voltage and current, power rail capacitance (doesn't effect RMS directly but does effect THD floor level), gain setting, etc.
Thank you!